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This is a training manual for competition climbers
pdf version: coachingdoc.pdf

Welcome to Training for Competition Climbers.

1. Introduction to Training for Competitions  
2. Getting Started  
3. Strength and Power Training  
4. Power Endurance  
5. Endurance Training  
6. Technique Training  
7. Resting  
8. Competition Preparation  
9. Cross Training and Other Issues  
10. Summary  
11. References  
12. Changes  

1. Introduction to Training for Competitions

Welcome to A Training Manual for Competition Climbers. This manual was designed to help competitors learn how to get ready for competitions. It was written based on past climbing and coaching experiences of the authors, articles about training for climbing, as well as input from the scientific community that is researching how to train specifically for climbing.

There are 11 chapters in this manual:

  1. Introduction to Training for Competitions - This chapter explains what the manual contains and who it is designed for.
  2. Getting Started - This chapter will focus on making goals and understanding what is needed in order to achieve those goals.
  3. Strength Training - This chapter will introduce different training techniques that can be used to improve the strength of a climber.
  4. Power Endurance Training - This chapter will introduce different training techniques that can be used to improve the power endurance of a climber.
  5. Endurance Training - This chapter will introduce different training techniques that can be used to improve the endurance of a climber.
  6. Technique Training - This chapter will introduce different training techniques that can be used to improve the technical ability of a climber.
  7. Resting - This chapter will introduce different training techniques that can be used to improve the resting skills/ability of a climber.
  8. Competition Preparation - This chapter will introduce different techniques that can be used to help a climber prepare for a competition.
  9. Cross Training and Other Issues - This chapter will touch upon issues such as cross training, nutrition, and other lifestyle choices that can affect your performance in a competition.
  10. Summary - This chapter provides a summary of the ideas presented in this document.
  11. References - This chapter contains references that can be used to enhance what has been presented in this manual. There are references to articles on the Internet, books, and people who have contributed to this manual.

This manual is not intended as a bible for training, merely as a guideline to help climbers that are bored of their regular training routine. Climbers should feel free, and are encouraged to experiment with different variations on the drills to see what works best for them. As you read it you will find links and references to other documentation that may go into much more detail about specific drills and reasons for doing them. Please go to the links and read them thoroughly.


1.1 Disclaimer

I (Michael Doyle) am not a certified personal trainer nor have I taken any formal training on physiology or kinesiology. However, I do have over six years experience coaching climbers and have learned a great deal over that time. If you disagree with some of the drills presented here, or if a dril causes you discomfort, stop. Getting injured is always a bad thing. As always feel free to email me with any questions or comments.

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