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Hueco Tanks is still considered by many to be the mecca for bouldering in the United States. With thousands of problems and a generally comfortable winter climate it's not hard to see why thousands of people every year make their pilgrimage to Hueco. Even with the bureaucracy added in the late 90s Hueco is still an amazing place to visit.

The bouldering at Hueco is located about 30 miles east of El Paso, Texas within the Hueco Tanks Historic State Park. The fact that it is in a state historic park means that there are lots of rules to know and follow. In 2007 the entrance fee to the park was $4 per person.

The historic nature of the park comes from the fact that Hueco Tanks is a source of water in what is otherwise a desert climate. As such it was the home for many bands of Native Americans and there are lots of pictographs and relics lying around. In order to climb in the park you will be required to watch a 20 minute orientation video about the history of the park. In fact you might have to watch the orientation video once a year.

The park itself is broken up into four sections; North Mountain, East Mountain, West Mountain and East Spur. You must have a guide and be a part of a tour to climb in any of the areas with the exception of North Mountain. North Mountain is open to self-guided tours (run around and boulder) but it is limited to 70 people per day; 60 pre-reserved and 10 walk-in. There are tours with volunteer guides that can go to the other areas and they don't cost anything but there is no guarantee that a guide will be available for the tour you book. If you really want to go send a specific problem, or just want to be in control of where the tour goes then you can hire a commercial guide.

There are always new problems going up or holds breaking but a new guidebook can be purchased from the Hueco Rock Ranch, the local campground and hangout for climbers. On the way to Hueco Tanks State Park you will see signs to the Hueco Rock Ranch, just follow those.

  To get to Hueco Tanks you can fly into El Paso, Texas. The state park is approximately 30 miles east along Hwy 180 (Montana Blvd). When the road is about to go to one lane (right lane ends) there will be a left turn lane and a sign indicating Hueco Tanks Historic State Park is 8 miles to the north.

  If you are driving from the West then follow the directions above. If you are driving from the East head for El Paso along I-10. You will see a sign for Hueco Tanks on I-10 at exit 82.

  El Paso is a large city with tons of hotels if that is your fancy but you are at least 30-45 minutes away from the state park. Closer to Hueco are two options; The Hueco Rock Ranch or the camping within the state park. Each camping area has it's pros and cons. The Hueco Rock Range is close to the park but you would want to drive in each day. It costs $5/night per person and tends to have large amounts of climbers. There is a common area indoors (barn) to hang out in and this is where you'll sign up for any commercial tours. Within the state park is a campground that as of January 2007 cost $14/night (with water and electricty) or $12/night (water only) but you could have two cars, two tents and up to 6 people stay on each site. The disadvantage of the state park campground is that they lock the gate at 6pm each day so even on rest days you have to be back in the park by 6. The state park does have nicer facilities and is usually quieter plus you can walk to the bouldering from there. There are some weird rules in the park though; such as only being able to register a site for 3 days at a time under one name and each vehicle can only be on the same site for 6 nights in a row after which you'll have to move sites. Also you have to pay the $4 park entry fee even if you are not climbing a day. The $4 park entry fee is waived if you, or a person in the same vehicle have a Texas State Park Pass.

  The guidebook has a great list of local amenities including some of those listed below but does not mention two things that I believe are necessities if you plan on staying awhile in Hueco; Internet and Laundry.

  For Internet you can grab wireless tons of places but I prefered to go to a coffee shop called Kristoph's, located in El Paso just off Montana Blvd on Lee Trevino Ave. It is in a shopping centre called Towne Centre, just south of Vista Del Sol Ave and in the same plaza with a Taco Time out front.

  There is a Laundromat not far from the coffee shop mentioned above. It is called Fort Laundry and is on the east side of Lee Trevino about two blocks north of Kristoph's Coffee.

  There is a super market not far from Hueco Tanks called Montana Vista Mercado. It is on the south side of Montana Blvd about 6 miles back towards El Paso. This will have just about everything you need plus some Mexican specialty items if you are looking for a treat.

  You can buy a Texas State Parks pass for $60 (one name) or $75 (two names). The pass allows entry into the park for everyone in the same vehicle as the passholder. Therefore if you are planning on climbing with just one other person you will make your money back within 8 days of climbing.

  If you know the dates you will be in Hueco then I recommend making a reservation for every day you will be there. Again there are some twists to this such as you can only reserve three days in a row under one name. However you can reserve under your name for two people, then have your partner reserve under their name for two people. For rest days you can cancel your reservation and the money will be refunded to your credit card.

  If you do not have reservations then you can wait at the gate in the morning and the first 10 people will be allowed to get a pass for climbing at North Mountain. If you stay in the state park you can get to the office before 8am and will have a better chance of being one of the first 10 people. Signing up for a volunteer tour will only get you in the park if a volunteer guide shows up. Hiring a commercial guide is a guaranteed way to get in the park and go where you want, but you can't go to North Mountain.

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