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Climbing in Kalymnos, Greece
Overview:
Kalymnos is an island located in the far east of the Aegean Sea. In fact you can actually see the coastline of Turkey from the eastern side of Kalymnos. The climbing on Kalymnos is famous for the wildly overhanging, tufa and stalactive filled limestone but there is plenty of slabby to vertical routes as well. With a gorgeous seaside setting, great climbing within walking distance of good food and nice accomodations and of course the Aegean Sea to relax in after a day of climbing it's no wonder why some people claim Kalymnos is the best climbing area in the world. While I don't necessarily think it's the best climbing area in the world I do think it's an amazing area to visit for a vacation climbing trip.

Info:
Directions:
There are quite a few options to get to Kalymnos.
  • Depending on the time of year you can find flights from Athens directly to Kalymnos. Check both Aegean Air and Olympic Airlines for cost and flight information. This is generally the easiest but most expensive option to get to Kalymnos and make sure you check the luggage restrictions for each of the airlines.
  • You can fly to Kos and take a ferry to Kalymnos. Again check Aegean and Olympic airlines.
  • You can take a ferry from Athens (usually overnight) to Kalymnos.
Accomodation:
Most climbers stay in a small town called Massouri. There are quite a few studios here to rent. Most studios have two single beds, a fridge, a hotplate and a shower & toilet. The views and the quality of the amenities change with the price but there are usually lots of studios available. From Massouri you can walk to many of the climbing areas but will have to rent a scooter to visit some of the farther away crags.

Once you arrive on Kalymnos you can take a taxi to Massouri or try to figure out the local bus system. Once thing to know is that you need to buy bus tickets before getting on the bus. A taxi from the airport to Massouri cost me 12 euros in the fall of 2008.

Weather:
While locals claim you can climb year round I don't think I'd want to be there in the middle of summer. As with most areas October is the most popular time. In October it is usually dry but really warm. The sea and nights are still quite warm as well. I was there in November and the weather was almost perfect although the sea was a little cold for swimming. I think for a vacation standpoint that October would be better but for climbing temps then November would be better. Last week of October, first week of November... perfect.

Logistics:
A lot of climbers hang out at Fatoliti's Bar in Massouri. Get a taxi to take you here. Here you will be able to find climbing partners, get information on good restaurants or cheap accomodation and they have wireless Internet. There are small mini-marts along the main road but for cheaper groceries you will want to go to a super market in Pothia. Rent a scooter for a couple days, get groceries and check out some of the more remote caves. Ghost Kitchen, Sikati Cave and Arhi are all great locations that you will need a scooter (or car) to visit.

Photos:
Views
As I said, Kalymnos is located in an amazing seaside setting. Just about everyday features blue skies and amazing sunsets. Here are just a few photos of some of those views:


Grande Grotta
The Grande Grotta is probably one of the most amazing sectors on Kalymnos. The big cave is visible from Massouri and features an amazing forest of huge stalactites, big tufas and long, long routes.

Aegilis

IVI
IVI is a classic 7b on the left side of the Grotta. One of the shorter routes in the cave it is still pumpy.
DNA & DNA Extension
Fun de Chichune
Massala
Massala is a four pitch route that goes up over the Grande Grotta. Actually it's five pitches. I highly recommend pitching out the last pitch.

Odyssey
Odyssey is one of the most diverse sectors on the island. It has routes ranging from easy and slabby to hard and steep. It is a long walk from Massouri and many people use scooters to get here.

Sikati Cave

Ghost Kitchen
The Ghost Kitchen sector has mostly moderate climbs that are fantastic. For a not very overhanging wall the features are huge and out of this world. Big tufas and mushroom caps are just a few of the highlights you'll find here.

Illiada Cave
Located between Odyssey and Grande Grotta this is the far cave visible from Massouri.

Skalia Cave
While not a climbing area (it's located at The Cave sector) the Skalia Cave is a very unique feature on the island. When you get into the main cavern find the string and follow it.
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